Style
for Sale
In the posh boutiques of New York and Paris fashion designers
scratch their heads to come up with the next look for the "man
of style." How should the hair be cut? Should the man with the
look have sideburns? Should he have a mustache? Should the hair
be dyed? Should he wear a cap? Should he don
a hat?
The accountants use their laptop computers to churn out the numbers
giving the profits to be made if the look includes a baseball
cap...or if the man could be persuaded to dye his hair... or if
he could be coaxed into shaving twice a day, instead of only once
Once the visionary designers have finalized the look, they hire
an ad agency to market it. A worldwide blitz is launched. Men with
the look are shown with women fawning over them; the man with the
look is successful at everything: business, love, sports, gambling...Men-boys
around the world fantasize about the look and soon the designeršs
coffers start to overflow. Success!
The Sikh creates his own style through his dastar, or his
head-dress. The New York designers are unable to profit from
this style. The razor companies are left holding the bag. The
Sikh has created his own style. Not even another Sikh can
emulate his style...so individual is his look.
The Sikh's dastar gives him self-confidence and pride. The
simplest peasant from the Punjab ties his turban as if he were
an Emperor. The dastar is the crown of the Sikh. It brings
equality between the millionaire and the pauper.
The
Beauty of the Pugree
The most beautiful head-dress for men
is the hand-tied pugree or turban. This
head-dress, once banned by the Mughal
Emperors for the commoner, identifies
the Sikh from near and afar. The Sikh
cannot hide in the masses! He must
stand and be counted.
The turban or pugree is made from fine
cotton and usually comes in about one
meter width. A visit to a pugree shop
reveals a multitude of colors. Bright
ones for the young at heart! The
standard black, maroon, army green,
navy blue and steel grey for the
mature look! White and saffron for
the religious look!
The simpler version of the pugree
involves an approximately five meter
long piece of cloth. Men who prefer
the fuller look may buy eight meters
of cloth, cut it in half and make a
four-meter-by- two-meter turban
to work with.
The Sikh child begins to learn the art
of turban tying around his teens. It
may take him several years to master
the procedure and develop his own
personal style to create a work of art.
The
pugree is sometimes starched lightly, especially if it
is to be worn again without re-tying it. Otherwise, one works
with the soft, unstarched cloth. The first step is the punee
where two people stretch the cloth diagonally. The cloth is
then folded, while the pugree is kept stretched along the
diagonal. Both people fold (by rolling) with their right hands,
keeping the left side stretched. After the folding, the turban
cloth is gathered.
Before tying the pugree the wearer may wrap a
colorful fifty around his head. The front portion of the fifty will
be
visible on the forehead and adds beauty to the pugree.
The tying of the pugree is not simple if one wants
it to look
attractive. Every Sikh boy has spent hours in front of the
mirror perfecting the technique. Many Sikh women, particularly
American Sikh women, wear beautiful turbans with their
distinct styes. One end of the pugree is held in the mouth
while one gradually wraps the cloth around the head. The
angle at which each turn is made, the pinching of the cloth on
the forehead, the opening and closing of the folds of the cloth
all add subtle touches which lend each
pugree a unique look.
Once
the entire cloth is almost used up the last part is tucked in the
front taking
great care to smooth any wrinkles from this last fold. The end that
was clenched in
the teeth is now released and pulled to the back of the head. The
first fold is now
pulled through and opened so that the entire head can be covered.
The back end is
now pulled back and tucked in.
Tying of the turban is a physical ritual for the Sikh man and for
the woman who chooses to wear a turban. It is a ballet, with precise
movements of the hands, shoulders and fingers. The cloth is the
medium of this art. Once perfected, it only takes a couple of minutes
to tie the turban. But it transforms the way the Sikh looks!
A
Little Less Formal Style
The Sikh's dastar does not always have to be the
long turban. Depending upon the situation, Sikhs have developed
less formal styles as well. A two meter long piece of cloth (often
with an interesting pattern) can make an attractive, less formal
dastar
.


A
Lot Less Formal Style
Sikh sportsmen wear the patka made from a square
piece of cloth (about two feet by two feet) with strings attached
on two sides. The patka is tied around the head with the jurha snugly
wrapped in the patka's strings. Often a bandanna can be tied around
the head with no strings.
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